The 12^th century capital of the Hoysala Empire of Southern India, Halebidu makes its mark on the tourist map for being home to prime examples of Hoysala art and architecture. Paved footpaths and manicures lawns surround this Halebidu masterpiece. The slight walk from the entrance gate allows one to take in the temple complex, which at first sight appears to be a rather squat form raised on a high plinth.

The intricacy and marvel of the exterior wall strikes only when one gets close to the plinth that connects the two temples – Hoysaleshwara and Shantaleshwara. While walking on the plinth, one cannot help but notice the multiple surfaces and projections of the temple walls. This complex is usually classified under the Karnataka Dravida style of Indian temple architecture.

 

Evolved between the 11^th and 14^th centuries, and sometimes referred to as ‘Vesara’, the style was characterised by the use of tiered pyramids and aedicules, along with the pushing out of the axial projections. The Hoysalas increases the complexity and ornateness of the style, by developing a stellate plan on the principle of a rotated square. Overlaying the multiple rotations has resulted in the almost star-like form, that allows for a play of light and shadow over the rows of sculpture.

 

The stone used for the construction is schist/soap stone, which is light-coloured and soft for sculpting when freshly cut; but hardens tremendously and turns into a greasy black colour after exposure to air. The arrangement of the bands of sculpture – that includes icons from Shaivite, Vaishnavaite as well as Jain traditions – helps to break down the heavy mass of the temple, to a more friendly scale. The carving is highly intricate, with great attention paid to detail – the emotion in the eyes, the swaying of robes, a slight smile on the lips and so on.

 

There are four entrance porches to the twin shrines, both of which are dedicated to Lord Shiva. The interiors of the temple are quite a contrast to the exterior. Dark and cool, they are quite plain except for the lathe-turned pillars that run in rows between the north and south entrances. Within this dark space, but brightly lit garba-grihas lend a mystical air and draws in visitors towards itself.

 

FOOD

 

Don’t expect anything over the top. The best bet is let go of one’s inhibitions, and stop at one of the numerous eateries that dot the highways. We feasted on some pretty well made sambhar-rice-vada combo in places that were too small to accommodate our entire group at once!

 

SHOPPING

 

Available right outside the temple complex are a whole range of statues of gods and goddesses made of metal alloys or stone.

 

AROUND HALEBIDU

 

The twin temple town of Belur is 16 km away, and it’s easy to combine the two destinations. The Gomateshwara statue at Shravanbelgola (91 km away) is very popular on the Jain pilgrimage circuit, especially during the 10-day Mahamastakaabhisheka festival. While here, one can also explore numerous Jain Basadis.

 

FACT FILE

 

Location: In southern Karnataka’s Hassan district

Getting there: Hassan (32 km) is connected to major cities by road and rail. Mangalore (160 km/3.5 hrs) is the nearest airport, while Bengaluru is 5 hrs away by road.

Best season to visit: The winter months from November to February